This is an amazing monument with historical significance for both Muslims and Catholics. Construction of the mosque began in 785 and the first Moslem service was held 3 years later. It was expanded 3 times over the next couple of centuries. What began as a space for 5000 to pray grew to house over 9000 and then to almost 20,000. The mosque has the traditional ablution courtyard and hall of prayer. Some of the original columns are re-purposed from roman buildings in the area, and the architecture is stunning in form and color.
Abd il Rahman I purchased an existing Visigothic church and demolished it to build the mosque. They have actually uncovered parts of that 6th century church and you can stand in the mosque and look at part of an old mosaic from that church. The brochure prepared by the current owners ( the diocese of Cordoba) talks about the mosque under the title "The Islamic Intervention" and the building of the church within the mosque as "The Christian Transformation". This history continues to play out as Muslims have petitioned to pray at the mosque-cathedral but permission has been denied.
The mihrab (the sacred place beside which the imam leads the prayer, or would if he were given permission) points toward Mecca.
The mosque is rather unremarkable from the outside except for its size (590 by 425 ft, for a total of 250,000 square feet). However, the interior, with its 900 columns with overlapping arches and alternating use of red brick and stone, is stunning.
And in amongst the arches of the mosque, a church was constructed. The first part, built shortly after the Reconquesta in 1236, was rather modest. However, in 1523 the main chapel and choir were plunked right to the middle of the mosque, and numerous side chapels were built over,the centuries to accommodate the wishes (and the money) of those believers who wanted to be buried in the mosque-cathedral. Charles V, who had never been to Cordoba, supported the building of the church over the objections of its people. Upon seeing the damage he had caused to happen, he is reported as saying: "You have built here what you could have built anywhere but you have destroyed what is unique in the world." This is the very same Charles V who destroyed part of La Alhambra to make way for his renaissance palace!
From this view you can see how the cathedral pokes up above the external arches. Evidently though folks here say "voy a la mezquita a our misa", or I'm going to the mosque to hear Mass!
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